The Bridal Designer Who Just Wants You to Be Yourself
ASAR - COLLECTION 2.
Interviewing ex-Topshop designer, now bridal brand owner Nikeen Asar on Zoom did not stop his positive energy radiating through the laptop screen. A self-proclaimed lover of clean lines and expensive satins, he launched his namesake business last year after signing himself off from his demanding role at the high street giant. “I went on vacation with my brother and cousin to Sicily and ended up staying an extra week and I took my sketchbook with me and basically designed my first 2 collections there.”
The fashion forward woman getting married should not resist the Asar aesthetic – beautiful silk slip dresses with billowing trains, super-flattering fitted shapes, daring sheer skirts – but who is the real Asar bride? “With my bespoke clients – they’re definitely very strong, very confident women. They’re women who are very sure of what they like and they can’t seem to get the experience from a traditional bridal boutique. You know, like going to a boutique, taking your bridesmaids and your mum, having bubbles and trying on 20 dresses that you don’t actually like.” There’s no doubt that Nikeen acknowledges a serious gap in the market for alternative experiences and bridal options for the cool and recently engaged. His inclusion in exciting new bridal collective, The Post-Modernists (a collection of designers who make pioneering bridal) as well as its existence makes total sense. “People say their experience with me is much more refreshing, casual and relaxed. Lots of women find the whole wedding process quite daunting, they want something a bit more pared back and I definitely offer a pared back service.”
THE OPHELIA SLIP DRESS.
Not only does Nikeen design wedding gowns with a laid-back approach, he thinks about his brand and the impact it makes on the world. A keen advocator of sustainability, he doesn’t use artificial fabrics that end up in landfill and believes in clothing becoming heirlooms and living beyond the wedding day. “The Ophelia [slip dress] is one of my bestsellers and the idea of people cutting off the train and making it into a midi dress – I just love. I often recommend London dyers where they can dye the dress up. It gives the dress a new lease of life.” All Nikeen’s collections build up from that very first one sketched in Sicily and no collection is ever disregarded – mixing old pieces in with the newer collections is a no brainer for him and again a refreshingly practical point of view.
Fit is key for the Asar look, so Nikeen has a fit model and does multiple practice versions of his gowns before a style is released for ready-to-wear: “I definitely think I’m into minimal clean shapes and silhouettes. I love fabric - I put a lot of emphasis on ensuring I have the best possibly fabric. I use the heaviest satins that I can find - it creates the most beautiful drape when on a woman’s body and it looks super flattering for different sizes and shapes.” The attention to body shape is needed in the bridal space – anyone who has experienced shopping for a wedding dress and finding out the sample sizes are a 12 when they’re in fact a 16/18 knows that size inclusivity in bridal can be a struggle, especially when traditional, strapless lace looks are far from your go-to: “For bespoke I can do any size and ready-to-wear I’m offering size 4 to 28, I can do bigger if needs be. I just try and include everyone” AMEN.
The most appealing thing about Asar to is its simplicity and commitment to design. Although Nikeen adores and admires cutting-edge designers he never claims to be one himself, which is part of his down to earth charm: “We’re familiar with the slip dress, I’m not doing anything revolutionary – but I want to offer the best possible slip dress you can buy. I don’t want to skimp on fabrics, I want to use silk, I want to line it in silk, I want to have a huge train on it. I want it to be dramatic.” Luxury meeting striking modern shapes in bridal has to be welcomed because it’s hard to be an individual when you’re a bride. If ballgown vs fishtail isn’t your bag, up and coming cutting-edge designers should be.
And brides aren’t holding back when it comes to wearing what they please to what many describe as the most important day in your life. Even Nikeen expressed his own surprise on how edgy women are now willing to go. “I shoot a lot of the looks without lining, because it’s a really beautiful editorial look. I was really surprised because one of my really close friends actually went for the sheer look! She’s just gonna wear some big pants.” It seems picking wedding underwear has never been more important and taking risks - style or otherwise, allows a bride to feel and look like herself. “I love creating beautiful garments for women that make them feel confident. Maybe that sounds really basic, but that’s what I really like.” We couldn’t agree more – LONG LIVE ASAR!
4 WAYS TO KNOW YOU’RE AN ASAR BRIDE
SATIN & SILKS COME FIRST.
CORSETRY– YOU DON’T KNOW HER
EXPOSED PANTS AT YOUR WEDDING - NBD.
YOU’VE ALREADY PLANNED WHERE YOU’RE WEARING YOUR WEDDING DRESS POST-DYE JOB.
THE CALYPSO POLKADOT
A QUICK Q&A
Who is your dream alternative bride?
She’s already married, but if I was to dress someone who was already married it would be Zoe Kravtiz. I’m also obsessed with FKA Twigs, I think she’s so incredible. They’re the kind of brides that I like. And FKA Twigs she’s quite out there, so I’d have to do bespoke.
Biggest gripes with the bridal industry?
My massive gripe about bridal – show different faces and different types of women! People can relate to different images – it’s about promoting different cultures, nationalities, races and women.
Your bridal dress no-nos?
I really hate dresses that come out from the waist. I just associate them with not being modern at all and too fairy tale. I just hate when a bride decides to be a completely different person on her wedding day. I always say to brides, it’s good to be a better version of yourself.
